Clicketyclicketyclick… The menu choices come up on the electronic display like the destinations at a railway station. Monday it’s veal stew, Tuesday lamb cutlets, Wednesday chicken casserole, Thursday calf’s liver, Friday fish dumplings and Saturday Vol-au-Vent. Alain Ducasse has teamed up with the worker-architects from the Ciguë collective to come up with a reworking of a Parisian brasserie under the new canopy covering the entrance to the Les Halles centre. It’s like the infamous Chartier, the traditional worker’s café, only the chefs are France’s finest and Ciguë have covered the chairs in leather and brought crazy-paving onto the tables and the bar. There’s a real brasserie spirit to the venture with impeccably sharp service that never fails to come with a smile.
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